Harry Hears A Hodaka

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The rust if any can be easily taken care of at the time of getting the item chromed or painted of your choice and Rust cannot be treated as a reason to Return the item, which please note. They had very substantial reduction in oil temps using the coatings. SwainCoat will do pistons, heads, etc. They use a moly coating on the sides and ceramic on the crown. It's good stuff I hear. You need to find someone who has run at the flats for a while. Get them to help with what will work for frame design and wheel sizes. You find soft spots and rough areas some times groves.

High speed wobbles are no fun and depending on the bikes set up you have to do different things to recover from them. I have had 2 street bike that would go into wobbles. It will get your attention chuckle chuckle If you go with a reed induction intake, find out what is being used for reed material now at the flats. Primary , transmission and sprockets. You would need to know what RPM you have to run to have the speed to make the record with the above ratios. The reeds would have to survive at least 10 miles at that rpm to do runs.

Unless you are willing to change them out at the turnaround. A piston port setup might work for a top end run. Bet Harry would know if that would work or not. Keep us updated on how your doing pleases.


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First the rider goes on a strict diet and drops 35 lb. There is no reason why you cannot experiment with Steens or Gemini frames that carried hodaka engines. I have a Gemini with a wombat engine and previously had a steens. My suspicion is both of them weigh less to begin with. We have our eye on a rolling chassie from a Yamaha 80 f? I was not the rider he was 89 pounds soaking wet.

Our runs were on pavement "Black Top" We ran an air cooled reeded motor with a 34 mikuni. A close ratio box with synthetic ATF. It also ran a custom total loss ignition. I believe we also used the stock street rear drive sprocket and the early lighter chain. We also experimented with water Kooling by wrapping the cast iron cylinders with soft copper and use a heater core for our radiator.

We had no water pump and relied on thermocline to circullate the water. We really didn't do much if any better than the 34 mikuni and a reed and a special cut through the piston. We learned that with the bigger carburetor and the reed at WOT so much air was going through the engine that it alone kept the engine cool from the inside out.

I felt we were very successful and had very few engine failures. Hey we were not starting from a dead start so the clutch held up pretty well as did the crankshaft. The later larger crank half of the 98 and it's clutch.

Hodaka Chrome Gas Tank 125 Combat Wombat Model 95 Super Rat Road Toad Dirt Squir

I would use the small side on the flywheel and the large size on the clutch side. Plus you do not need the advance which is built into the black box as the engine will always work up stairs beyond any advance curve. A pipe with a very small stinger about 8 to 10 inches long. I have one of those pipes I have experimented with on my 98 but it was just too far up stair to be useful for motocross. I am sure you will bring other old timers out of the closet for this one. It could become a Hodaka Club Project for sure. Hodaka at one time either sold or made plans available to fabricate a battery box.

Before the Hodaka CDI came out total loss ignition was what the serious racers used. I removed the rivets which retained the flywheel so as to use only the point cam. The cam was then machined to only a peak so after opening the rest of rotation was dwell or saturation. The points used a double spring to eliminate float at high RPM. Also the kick start portion of the transmission was eliminated and these bikes were push start only. This reduced both weight and mechanical drag. When we timed the ignition it was always done with a dial indicator.

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At the time we exceeded MPH these bikes did not have a ferring. The Yamaha I have my eye on? When I saw it the thought of putting a hodaka motor just instantly came to mind. I had no major purpose in mind. The Bonneville thing came along later. I would have to check the rule book to see if this would even fit into a class which it might be competitive with. I have seen some suzukis which are extremely fast. I'm the guy on the other post asking about Mikuni carb questions. Primarily I was a certified Ford technician and uncertified Harley builder too.

However ever since I was a kid Hodaka 2 stroke was buried in my mind. I was taught by an old feller who was old school the fine art of carburetion and engine tuning and how to get around stumbles and flat spots and proper acceleration on the road, drag racing, oval track. Some of this information is clear off but the theory still applies for it's for big motors but scale it down and it works for just any motor out there.

Then I got into bikes with all sorts of different headaches to deal with let alone build the motor. Basically no matter how the motor is beefed or how it's timed your carburetor is going to have to win or lose for you period You have to control the vacuum in the center of the main jet area period Now there are other complications that affect the center of vacuum when you jack the throttle center of vacuum just flat out goes wild and moves clear off the map so to speak. To control this flat spot the accelerator pump suffices enough fuel by a short squirt of fuel till the vacuum returns to the main jet.

Also a major break through was the addition of the power valve used when the motor was say half way wide open and you jack the throttle and the demand for more fuel is more than the main jet can provide so the vacuum goes through a passage and draw on a rubber diaphragm valve that just plain has big holes in it to dump fuel so that helps as a temporary patch till vacuum returns to center over the main jets again.

Beings how these motors are primarily half drag racing and half slowing down for a turn so they are tuned for that. You can stick any carburetor on any motor providing you tune it for the fuel you use and proper air fuel atomization. It's happened before and will continue to do so to get that better edge on the competition. I always felt not enough air and you got problems or vise versa.

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Motors act strange at different sea levels and of course the weather has a lot to do with it. Ever notice in you automobile or bike on a foggy or damp day it runs like a jackrabbit. At least you can review and set it up the way it was the last time you was there. In Racing what beat the competition one weekend is junk the next weekend because someone tuned a better carb or motor than you did.

I saw that every weekend at the drags and oval - truly a tuners nightmare. Anyway pay attention to this changing the distance from the carb to the head helps controlling vacuum centers maybe a longer - shorter intake or fine tune with thicker or mounting gaskets. Your header pipe will play a big role in how your motor burns fuel efficiently and can affect your center of draw on vacuum too. We used to on cars and bikes take the header pipe and mark them with a piece of chalk the whole length of the pipe and make a blast down the strip and take a look where the chalk stopped burning off and make our cut off there this is where your greatest heat dissipation starts to disappear.

From that point you start tweaking your pipes for max performance adding length or shorting the pipe or the bigger or smaller pipe dial. I mean you might have a straight pipe but might have to scale down the end of it to a smaller diameter. Here is a classic example my car had terrific take off with single exhaust but no top end. I put on dual and lost take off but had terrific top end catch the drift Using back pressure in the motor has advantages depending solely on what type of racing your doing. As drag racing is different than road is different to oval as oval is different to flat out racing.

They all breathe different from one another I don't know if they will let you run exotic hot fuels or not but if it is. Watch the piston to cylinder tolerances. I watched a buddy of mine on his Harley dragster with out me knowing it and not being there to warn him he changed the motor set up to a different class running hot fuel and it sheered the solid steel cylinder right in two - the rings end gap showed shiny from rubbing together and well you know the rest hard and expensive lesson to learn.

I hope you can get to tune you motor somewhere near the salts altitude that helps a lot and remember it will be hot there so tune that carb to compensate for it. And last but not least is the air intake your carb is pointing towards the rear kind of in a dead air space vacuum maybe just maybe pointing your air horn towards the incoming wind may or may not help. Seems ram air systems on aspirated gasoline engines seemed to help And plus moving the air cleaner back and forth will help centralize your center of vacuum in the throat to as well restricting or unrestricting the air flow too I hope you find the right gear ratio to flat out with and hang on These are just subtle hints from my drawing board and some from other boards as well.

Just never be afraid to be different because that's how you get in the winners circle. I hope it's a fast one for you The needle is ground in a compound curve from top to bottom on one side only. Wonder if they would work on a 2 stroke that was set up for top end. I know they do mellow out the hit on piston port engines and still let you turn in fast lap times on MX and CC type events, I used it on my engine to keep the torque load down on the shift key. It was a engine to start with. The smallest they make is 30 mm though. That may be a bit large unless he goes with a reed intake.

You can get some information on them from their web site.

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I've been off in the world of the Karaki air intake and it has tremendous advantages beyond belief. I hate to wander off into the Harleys again but we just about seen it all. When the first S.


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Then it was off to dual webers with a angled intake to point the air horn into the wind better. If you got a engine demanding huge amounts of fuel then you got to feed it huge amounts of air or the combustion is going to way off as far as correct atomization of fuel air mixture. So the angled intake was a small step in the right direction. Take a look at top fuel funnys remember the old style huffers had a flat oval shape opening for the air to come in it was a direct in the wind all you can get air flow.

I believe it was John Force who dared to be different and put the curved 3 port air induction in their huffer made them big bucks in the winners circle. I got my first stop light drag with another Harley with a stroker and cams and dual webers. We lit the tires and I saw him in my rear view mirror when I banged 2nd gear and he was fruitless after that. He came over at about and got it. Here is the bad part. No later than he left than I was in the truck drug the wife along heading north to pick up another bike!!

Did I need it? Did I want it? But I like it!! Back to the story.. Heading north we got off in Marysville and ended up about 4 blocks from my buddy's house. What did I get? Needs some clutch work but a very nice cute little bike. It's for the wife to putt around on! I am truly addicted and now searching for a cure!? Anyone got a potion or an elixir to cure my problem? The thing is Maybe you run out of space in your shop, barn, garage, storage unit, pump house, utility room, spare bedroom, closets, kitchen cabinets, under your bed, the top of your closets, in your attic and under your house.

Oh yeah, your friends and relations are going to get really tired of having your bikes in their shops, their garages, barns, yada - yada, etc The drive-in storage shed rental fees are ridiculous!! So what did I do last weekend? I just picked up the motorcycle of my dreams, a Maico MC with the M1 chassis!! I'm not done yet and neither are my friends The first taste of vintage "heroin" is free. The next taste brings with it that feeling..

The "cure" is when you run out of money for the month, it's only the 10th and you have no food in the pantry or beer in the fridge and the bills equal twice as much as your bank account minus your eBay fees and motorcycle shipping costs. And you just pray that your cat or dog doesn't get sick and your wife's lawnmower keeps running!! What do those NGK designations mean? Tire Sizes and Conversion Chart. American Classic Racing.

American Historic Racing Motorcycle Association. American Motorcyclist Association.